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Light table negatives
Light table negatives












  1. #Light table negatives skin#
  2. #Light table negatives full#
  3. #Light table negatives pro#

  • Stackshot motor and rail assembly (to raise and lower the camera).
  • Arca-Swiss Cube (not necessary with #11 available).
  • There are five components to the set-up (unlike a scanner which makes life easy by having everything all preconfigured in one box): (i) camera, (ii) the lighting, film carrier and leveling arrangement, (iii) the camera stand, (iv) a laptop computer and (v) focusing accessories (Figure 3). (d) concluding observations (a) Equipment and Equipment Set-Up (c) digitizing procedure and related software, including linear dimensions, negative reversal, colour management, photo editing, sharpening, grain mitigation and clean-up I’ll carry this discussion in the following order of considerations: That said, these negatives can embed very good colour, much fine detail and a well-defined tonal range from deep shadows to bright highlights, so the medium is not to be under-estimated, especially as it is the essential starting point from which all else discussed here flows. When we talk of image quality, recall that the context is photographing colour or B&W negatives, which have unique characteristics and limitations inherent to film technology. Also important is the quality of the materials used: the film back in the days, and now the equipment and applications we use for digitizing the film and editing the photos. “Colour” in this context includes grayscale (“Black and White” – B&W). The quality of tonal gradation and colour depends on the correctness of the analog film exposure and the digital exposure of the film media. Perceived sharpness of a digitally converted negative, a property combining resolution and contrast, partly depends on the film chemistry and its processing, the quality of lenses and focus for both the original analog capture and the digital capture of the film, the parallelism and flatness of field of the digitizing set-up and the extent of magnification from negative to print. In the digital context, apparent resolution depends on the number of pixels per inch, and on seeing differences of tone or colour between adjacent pixels (Figure 2). I’ll begin this article with brief remarks about these photographic properties, to be explored in more depth further on.

    #Light table negatives skin#

    The usual telltale items in making such assessments would be, for example, the colours of foliage, skies, objects that are supposed to be gray or near-gray and skin tones. The photographs were made decades ago, and I have no precise recollection of scene accuracy and certainly no measurements, but the photographs bring back memories of the subject and I can tell whether the digital renditions of the colours I’m obtaining are credible and pleasing. Notice I did not say “accuracy” of colour rendition, because for the negatives I am converting there is no such thing. Primary factors I take into account for processing negatives are the inherent photographic properties of resolution, perceived sharpness, quality of tonal gradation, and credibility of colour rendition.

    #Light table negatives full#

    (The full work-up of this photo is laid-out in Annex 2)

    light table negatives

    #Light table negatives pro#

    Negative Conversion with Negative Lab Pro

    light table negatives light table negatives

    As well, I have substantially revised my whole set-up and workflow since the “LuLa” article. This article delves more into the technical aspects of set-up and capture, with a major focus on my workflow and findings using Negative Lab Pro (NLP – Figure 1) for converting digital negatives to positives. My previous article about this subject co-authored with Todd Shaner and published on, explored alternative techniques for processing colour negatives photographed with a camera (mirrorless or DSLR). Update: As pointed out by DIYP commenter Bruce Johnson, there’s a $0.99 iOS app called Light Box Loupe that will automatically invert the negatives and organize your negatives better than using your tablet’s native camera app.Digitizing Negatives with a Camera: Revisited Introduction: This, of course, shouldn’t be used to replace a proper scanner, but for a quick browse it’s an easy and clever use of a gadget you probably have sitting on your desk or in a drawer. Since tablet screens are large in comparison to even medium format negatives, it’s easy to see which frames are worth scanning in high resolution and which ones you can pass on. Simply back-light the negative using your light source, be it a window or light table, and use your iPad’s camera to quickly browse through your negatives. To help make sure you don’t waste time scanning unwanted negatives, YouTuber Adam of Ekenstam has shared a clever way to preview your negatives using an iPad.Īll you need to preview your photos is a light source and an iPad (or any other tablet) model with a camera attached. Have you ever scanned film negatives on your own? If so, you know it can be a time-consuming process.














    Light table negatives